Central Dalmatia is a haven of hedonism and history – a combination of spectacular beaches, Roman antiquity and a string of gorgeous green islands floating on a sea of sapphire blue. It’s a region of dramatic coastal scenery, of medieval and Renaissance towns, packed with character, and some of the best, reasonably priced, food and wine in the Mediterranean. It’s even got better weather than its Adriatic neighbours, allowing visitors to swim and sunbathe from early May to the end of September – true hedonism indeed!

The region

Roughly runs from Trogir in the north-west to Ploce in the southeast, interspersed with the large islands of Brac and Hvar as well as the not so large ones of Vis, Bicevo and Šolta. Neatly sandwiched between sea and mountain, the Dinaric Range forms Dalmatia’s natural 1500 metre high frontier. But the main feature of central Dalmatia has to be its coastline - the most indented, higgledy-piggledy, coastline in all of Europe - with hundreds of islands, islets, cliffs, fjords and even canyons, all generally lying parallel with the coastal mountains. This uneven shoreline presents visitors with such a variety of sea-scapes, of such diverse scenery, that it would take years to discover the wondrous jumble of it all.

In an attempt to compare and describe its 1,185 islands, Croatia has often been called "the new Greece". This is especially true of central Dalmatia – perfect for island-hopping – with efficient regular ferry services in summer, the region’s islands are headed up in size by Brac. This pine-ringed isle enjoys 2700 hours of sunshine a year, and reliable sea breezes make Bol, the island’s pleasure capital, a centre for surfers. But Brac’s main claim to shore-bound fame are its nicely accessible beaches, backed by pines trees, and great for relaxing – the best known is the pointyshaped Zlatni Rat. A mile from Bol, it is on the island’s southern fringe, often photographed but much better in reality.

Other central Dalmatian islands, well worth a visit, are Hvar, a chic island renowned for the colour and smell of its rich purple lavender that carpets it in spring and early summer. And the smaller, most distant, Vis which has an infectious charm, mainly due to its relaxed atmosphere.

Scurrying back and forth between all these islands are numerous ferries, frequent and cheap. Their home port is Split, Croatia’s second largest city and, as port-cities go, it has to be one of the most interesting and scenic: Diocletian’s Palace for example, facing the harbour, is one of the most striking Roman ruins in existence. Not only does it compete with Pompeii for sheer completeness but its 220 buildings are actually still home to several thousand people. A palace walking tour should be top of any visitors’ lists.

Elsewhere, enjoy a taste of Split walking down narrow shaded streets, under ancient archways, the street music, the exotic colours of the flower stalls, but mind the electric carts that seem to carry anything and everything!

The harbour is the focal point of the old town, which is on the south side of a high peninsula. On the peninsula’s western side is a huge wooded mountain park. And just to frame it all beautifully, Split is strikingly set between high coastal mountains that blend with the blue of the Adriatic.

Another sea-city well worth a visit is Trogir, to the west of Split as the crow flies. Low-slung upon the water, this island is undoubtedly Venetian in appearance. Helping the St Marks similarity along is the 13th century Cathedral of St. Lovro, complete with pointy 47 metre tower, it is one of the finest architectural works in Croatia, filled with Romanesque sculptures and Renaissance decorations. Elsewhere in Trogir, a stroll along any of its palm lined promenades, or through its maze of medieval streets, will soon reveal other fascinatingly in tact buildings. The Renaissance Lucic Palace or the Kamerlengo Fortress are two striking examples.

Shopping

We always recommend outdoor markets as the best way to experience real Croatian food shopping. Fish obviously figures highly in the region’s cooking so fish markets reign supreme for noise and colour, as well as for the fish of course – freshly caught that morning and cheaper than anywhere else. The one in Split, indoors and out, is particularly recommended, check with the local tourist office for when it is held.

Local Food

Soup (brodet) is common in this region, especially for the mid-day meal, flavoured with meat, vegetable or fish. Other popular starters are cold or hot hors d’oeuvres such as black risotto (rizot, flavoured with squid’s ink) or pasta topped with seafood (prstaci) or grilled pilchards. The main course is always headed up by meat or fish. Locally produced beef, lamb or pork. Try the pacticada which is beef stuffed with lard and roasted in wine and spices. Or maybe lignje which is lightly breaded and fried squid.

Local Wine

Dalmatia has the oldest wine-producing tradition in Croatia. The wines are very acceptable and some are even exceptional. Seek out Pocip and Grk on the island of Korcula, or plavac from Brac Island.

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